An hour flight from Taiwan’s Songshan airport (TSA) is your next weekend Taiwan getaway: Kinmen Island. Translated as “Golden Gate”, Kinmen Island is a cluster of islets and islands rather than one island. This article will focus on the Greater Island which, for Marvel comic fans, rather resembles the eyes of Venom.

Succinct to the image of Venom, what most characterizes Kinmen Island is its militaristic history. Even while you are hiking the forests of Kinmen National Park, or enjoying a walk along the beach, almost all attractions point to some significant military fortification or historic army structure.

The obvious reason for such a military fetish is that Kinmen is a mere two kilometers from Mainland China. Greater Taiwan, on the other hand, is 268 kilometers away, which explains why most folks in Kinmen call themselves “Kinmenese” or more generically, Chinese.

Long before today’s tensions between Communist China and Taiwan, Kinmen Island had been a politically charged hub for decades. During the Cold War, when Kinmen was called Quemoy (pronounced “kih-moy”) and Taiwan referred to as “Formosa”, Kinmen island was often the center of presidential debates and speeches, including those of Eisenhower, John F. Kennedy, and Nixon. It was during a time when western leaders spouted about the “Iron Curtain” of communism, while some even suggested nuking Mainland China.

In 1958, almost half a million bombs were dropped on Kinmen in what is called the Second Taiwan Strait Crisis. Rather than taking it lying down however, the local inhabitants retrieved the artillery shells and launched a cottage industry of homemade knives. To this day, hordes of tourists continue to purchase the iconic cutlery, cutting their vegetables and lemons with knives melted down from the metal of communist bombs —talk about making lemonade! Locals describe it as “burying the hatchet”.

Military stuff aside, visiting Kinmen Island is also a good chance to experience some old-style architecture, and to learn about Taiwan’s colonial past and the lingering Portuguese, Dutch and Malaysian influences.

When visiting Kinmen, however, don’t expect to find a bustling nightlife (or a restaurant open later than 10 pm!). That said, it’s a great place if you plan to island-hop. As far as staying exclusively on the Great Island, two to three days should be plenty of time. Rent a scooter. Buy a knife. Imagine you are Rambo. And grab some nature-time.

1. Mofan Street and the Troops Headquarters

Price: FREE

Within minutes of arriving on Kinmen, you’ll soon see how rural it is. The air is fresh and the flat landscape can be a welcome sight for city-slickers, used to walking amongst highrise buildings. 

Eventually you will notice that many of the roads seem to point to the famous Troops Headquarter attraction and its surrounding area, where you will find most of the action. Opposite the island’s typical greenery, this neighborhood consists of narrow, concrete streets, winding in dizzying concentric circles.

Mofan Street is particularly symbolic. Located on the edge of the concrete labyrinth, this humble road had been traditionally decorated with a row of Chinese (P.R.O.C.) flags on one side and Taiwanese (R.O.C.) flags on the other, commemorating mutual respect. Recently as of January 2020, the symbolic gesture gave way to exclusively Taiwan flags, due to new R.O.C. laws (Anti-Infiltration Act) intended to restrict foreign political influences. Nowadays, Mofan Street is merely a fun photo opportunity where you can catch two dozen Taiwan flags in a single shot.

Regarding the Troops Headquarters itself, this attraction is free of charge and gives visitors a glimpse of Kinmen’s militaristic past. 

2. FOOD (and drinks!)

In any adventure, a backpacker’s gotta eat! There are several “must-have” local things to eat in Kinmen. Right off the bat, you’ll see several beef jerky shops on every street, most notably the Joan Ranch Company. The Kinmenese beef jerky can be described as soft and chewy strips of sugared beef (called “bakkway”). You can’t go wrong with that.

In addition to beef jerky, Kinmen is also well known for its way of making noodles. Most shops, however, only sell dry noodles for customers to take home and cook themselves. 

That said, if you want to eat on-the-go, make sure to visit a candy store that sells Gongtang candies —which come in amazing varieties, including sweet mung bean, matcha, sesame, and other interesting concoctions.

Furthermore, it’s also easy to find yourself a bowl of Kinmen’s version of congee which, for those unfamiliar with congee, is a rice “porridge” with the option of pork or vegetables inside. In my opinion congee (of any kind) is a little bland, but not disagreeable.

One unique cuisine on Kinmen island is called Nyonya (also called Peranakan). This style of cooking is a product of Chinese migrants who settled throughout Malaysia, Singapore, and Indonesia —and then resettled on Kinmen. Nyonya is characterized by its Malay/Indonesian way of cooking, as well as its ingredients, including coconut milk, chili, lime juice, and spices.

Lastly, it’s good to be aware that Kinmen boasts some of Taiwan’s most famous hard alcohol, called Kaoliang liquor. Not that the alcohol ranges from 38-63% —so drink with caution.

3. Zhaishan Tunnels

Price: FREE

Once you’ve filled your belly, it’s time for an excursion, and there’s nothing quite like diving deep into the bowels of Mother Earth. Any kind of mine or underground cave is fascinating, but until I’ve visited Kinmen I had never experienced such a dark place embellished with colorful lights and classical music. It’s also conveniently near the beautiful sight of Gugang Lake.

4. Jiangonyu Islet beach

Price: FREE

If you visited Gugang Lake, you are familiar with Kinmen’s beautiful beaches. Jiangonyu Islet is yet another beach —with a twist: it’s almost a stone’s throw from the coast of Mainland China. From its entrance, a short downhill walk from the road, you will see a stone walkway laid over the muddy banks, if it’s low tide, that is. Over both sides of the stoned path is a procession of towering  ominous statues. As you make your walk towards Mainland China, you will be lead in the direction of the islet. Similar to the Zhaishan tunnels, your ears may be perked to the melodies of classical music projected from the Taiwanese loudspeakers. Perhaps the music is an homage to the memory when the local infantry would broadcast political messages over the water to their Mainlander opponents.

You may see some Kinmenese folks digging for clams. You might even consider taking a swim in the inviting waters. However, in light of the accusations that China has been floating their (swine-flu) infected pigs towards the shores of Taiwan — it’s probably best not to swim.

5. Jingshui Elementary school and Deyue Tower (old house)

Price: FREE

Similar to the Troops Headquarters, this is yet another opportunity to experience Kinmen’s distant past. Spending a few minutes perusing the classrooms of Jingshui Elementary school will transplant you as a student, sitting at your desk, perhaps wondering when someone will invent air-conditioner.

A few minutes walk away, the Deyue Tower conveys an even deeper look at what it might have been like to live on Kinmen a century year ago —that is, if you were part of the upper crust of society. Lavish dining room tables and all types of furnishings are on display, including some eerily realistic life-sized human replicas.

6. Kinmen National Park

Price: FREE

If the weather is nice, Kinmen is quite the sanctuary for Nature Lovers and Kinmen National Park is an invigorating example. Stretching over 35 km, it comprises over a quarter of the entire island (in scattered “chunks” of land rather than one connected area). One particular site, Taiwu mountain offers a panoramic view of Kinmen’s flat landscape. It takes about an hour to hike to the top where a giant rock awaits, with a Mandarin inscription, encouraging the Kinmenese to remember the “national humiliation”.

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