There is no city like Vancouver. Here’s how I describe it: imagine if Peter Pan identified as an LGBT vegan, who spoke Cantonese, smoked weed, and wore colorful tattooed sleeves — with “yoga sayings” and images of Dream Catchers. Other personifications may include dreadlocks, steampunk paraphernalia, an “ugly sweater”, and hipster traits (before they are cool). In many ways, Vancouver can be compared to many other awesome cities—but it is unique in this combination of cultural quirks.
To begin, Vancouver is very a nature-centric city, which fitsas one of the most naturally stunning places on Earth. Perched on the Pacific Ocean, it has mountains and a mild climate, the latter of which provides an all-year-round growing season (including, of course, Cannabis/Marijuana, which has a distinct presence in Vancouver). The abundance of green-spaces, including beaches, forests, and parks, attract all kinds of outdoorsy types from cyclists to sailors, hikers to heli-skiers. This, in turn, has also encouraged the “Green lifestyle” of eating organic food, driving electric cars, and hugging trees.
Welcome Vansterdam
The Peter Pan motif is useful in describing Vancouver’s youthful exuberance. Due to foreign investors who park their money in Vancouver real-estate (particularly those from Hong Kong), the price of owning a home has skyrocketed the price of Vancouver real-estate higher than an employee working at a Bong shop. The near-impossibility of owning a home has compelled many Vancouverites to remain perpetual renters rather than homeowners. This often gives Vancouver the feeling as if you’re visiting a university dorm. It is not difficult to find a house-party or encounter those in their “mid-life” flaunting the hurrah of someone in their early twenties. So, don’t be surprised if the parties run later than you’re used to, as Vancouver is not a work-obsessed culture.
In fact, most Vancouverites seem to manage with a single part-time job, which is sufficient when one divides monthly rent with 4-6 other roommates. Of all the jobs not related to Cannabis/Marijuana (which is substantial!), most other occupations seem to be seasonal or contractual, such as those in the movie industry. On that note, if you’re a comedy buff, you’ll be pleasantly surprised to hear Seth Rogen’s public-announcements on the local trains!
All things considered, you may feel a tinge of envy when you realize how much FUN living in Vancouver can often be —which is also why it is a very worthwhile place to visit. If you’ve been to Toronto, or other Canadian cities, don’t expect “more of the same” when visiting Vancouver. I am not kidding: there is no city like Vancouver. For example, here is a list of what you can do:
1. Get Naked on a Beach (or not) (Wreck Beach, UBC campus)
Price: FREE
Time investment: 1 hour-1 day
This is one of those unorthodox things to do that is “so Vancouver”. How many North American cities have nude beaches? How many international cities? Not many. Not enough, perhaps. The only catch in Vancouver is that it requires a 15-minute walk down (and up) a serious stretch of stairs. Once you arrive, you will notice two distinct beach areas. On the northern side, it is quieter and calmer. It is almost strictly reserved for nudists (and a handful of exhibitionists). On the southern side, however, it is significantly rowdier. There are food kiosks, drum circles, and frisbees being thrown as genitalia bounce freely. That said, it is neither required to be naked or socially expected. Obviously, the locals will probably get upset if you take pictures.
If seeing suntanned testicles isn’t your cup of tea, or if the weather changes for the worse, Wreck Beach is a stone’s throw from the UBC Museum of Anthropology, which is a spectacular museum (even if you’re not a nerd).
You can also plan a lazy beach day elsewhere, and there are numerous beaches to choose from, such as English Bay, which is the most popular one in Vancouver, the quiet Kitsilano Beach, Spanish Banks, Jericho Beach, Third Beach, and Sunset Beach, just to name a few. That said, be aware that the Pacific Ocean water is excruciatingly cold. If you are a male swimming at Wreck Beach, expect shrinkage. Or embrace it.
2. Eat a Classy Meal with a View (Queen Elizabeth Park)
Price: not the cheapest, but affordable
Time investment: 1-3 hours
If you have read other InnerNational articles, you will notice I’m a fan of elevated views, and this one is beautiful. First, I recommend you make a reservation at the Seasons In The Park restaurant, which is perched above the scenic flower garden of Queen Elizabeth Park. You may also want to “dress up” a little, so as not to feel too under-dressed. Whether you decide to stroll through the greenery before you eat is entirely your preference. I recommend the truffle soup.
Nearby, check out the Bloedel Conservatory: an inexpensive and impressively designed geodesic dome that is the indoor home of exotic tropical plants and over 200 free-flying birds of almost every species imaginable.
3. Smoke Weed (legally) and Stare at a Silly Clock (Gastown)
Price: Street/dispensary price of weed: $5-12 CAD/gram
At the time of this writing, Canada is officially becoming the first industrialized country to legalize recreational marijuana. In respect to Vancouver, laxness towards weed is old news. It has been culturally accepted (even by the Vancouver Police Department), since the 1970s —when the police brutally attacked peaceful protestors on horseback. In other words, the public relations disaster fostered a variety of extremely progressive laws towards all drug-use. For more context, google the “Gastown Riots”.
As early as the late 90s, marijuana “dispensaries” (shops) have been appearing like Starbucks stores. The oldest dispensaries are located near the Amsterdam Cafe, which is the most iconic (and famous) venue where you can “light up” even without a doctor prescription —as long as you purchase some food or a drink.
If you are visiting Vancouver on April 20 (“420”), brace for a culture-shock. On this symbolic day, HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS of participants gather, every year, and publicly partake in a drug for which many countries will execute and impose lifetime imprisonment sentences for. In Vancouver, the local police actually help manage the large crowds that occupy downtown. In all honesty, it hardly matters where you are in Vancouver on April 20. The 420 celebrations will be everywhere.
If it is not “420” and you would like to check out the Amsterdam Cafe, you can always join the ranks of all of the other tourists who congregate around the “Gastown Clock”. Apparently, this steam-powered attraction is the most photographed artifact in all Vancouver. Why? Who knows. Every hour it projects a loud steam-powered whistle, without fail. Although it is not that exciting, it might be if you’re high on weeeeeed…(see The Prince of Pot video, below)
4. Fancy the World’s Best Pizza on Commercial Drive (“The Drive”)
Price: $2-3 a slice
Whenever I am in town, eating pizza is a must. Because of that, Vancouver is the only place on the planet that being gluten-free is damn impossible. It is difficult to describe how delicious the pizza on The Drive truly is, but it can be explained: This otherwise “hippy” area has been an Italian neighbourhood for decades. It is a common spectacle to see dozens of old men clustered outside a cafe, with neatly combed gel-hairstyles, wearing one-piece Adidas jogging suits, dark glasses, jewelry, and fancy watches which, incessantly jingling, seems meant to accentuate the necessary hand-motions when speaking Italian. Because of this heritage, Vancouver pizza is world-class.
Strangely, the best pizza which seems to be commonly accepted is not Italian but from a well-known Persian, who named his pizza establishment after himself: Uncle Fatih. This iconic pizza chain is located throughout Vancouver but the original store is on the intersection of Broadway and Commercial.
That said, my personal favorite pizza is Four Brothers, as well as Fire Pizza. Wherever you seem to be in Vancouver, however, the common theme with pizzas is a slew of toppings, whether vegetables or meats. At two dollars a slice, Vancouver pizza is the G.O.A.T..
5. Stroll the Gaybourhood (West End)
No trip to Vancouver would be authentic without interfacing with the LGBT community. Of course, this community is scattered everywhere in Vancouver —including The Drive, but there is a particularly well-known neighbourhood unofficially dubbed by locals as The Gaybourhood (though, I would not use that term if asking for directions!).
An accessible walk from Stanley Park (or via bus) is the neighbourhood called the West End. You will quickly notice the way in which bus stops and other public edifices are suddenly all painted pink. Out of virtually every window and store-front property, you will notice rainbow flags as if you have entered a new country. The most famous attraction is the rainbow-coloured cross-walk on Davis Street and Bute Street (the latter strangely easy to remember). Of course, this neighbourhood has its share of gay bars and clubs, so visiting at night is quite a different experience than visiting by day.
What you need to know: If you, or your traveling companions, harbour any negative or unresolved feelings towards any element of the LGBT community, Vancouver is not the place to voice unkind opinions. Obviously, members of this community don’t always conform to stereotypes, so don’t assume they are easily identifiable. The overall Vancouver culture is very tolerant and supportive towards the LGBT community, to the point that being labelled a “homophobe” can spell social disaster. Be cool.
6. Visit Stanley Park and/or an Amazing Aquarium
If you have been hanging out in the West End, you are already quite close to Stanley Park. On a map, this magnificent park is the green-space that looks like an island (or bridge) between downtown Vancouver and the city of North Vancouver. When locals talk of walking or jogging the “Seawall”, this is where they are referring to: the 8.8-kilometer green coastline that surrounds Stanley Park. If that is a formidable distance to walk, there are numerous bike rentals in the area. Otherwise, you can simply bask on the grass, throw stones from the beach, or check out the famous Teahouse. There is also a quaint “locomotive” train that takes tourists throughout the park for a fee.
Also, inside Stanley Park is one of the world’s best public aquariums, which boasts of dolphins, dazzling jellyfish tanks, octopus, and even whales. The relatively high entrance-fee is absolutely worth it.
7. Go Shopping on Granville Street
If you fancy shopping or pursuing the nightlife, Vancouver’s Granville street will probably provide everything you need. From Waterfront train station to the bridge perched above Granville Island, Granville street is technically a 30-minute non-stop walk but its attractions, bars, and storefronts can easily keep visitors entertained all day —or several days. When you arrive there, you will understand why it is a place you should see for yourself.
What you need to know: Vancouver has its share of “eccentric” folks. Sometimes they are homeless, sometimes they are troubled (addicted to drugs, etc). Oftentimes, however, they are just weird in a healthy, functional way. They are not always dangerous, even if they invade your personal space. Of course, be wary when someone unexpectedly befriends you (they may be after your money!), but be open to experiencing strange, novel encounters. Eccentric strangers can create the best travel stories. Have fun but be cautious. It’s like the old adage: “Trust God but lock your doors”.
8. Be Classy (Yaletown)
When walking southward down Granville street, you will eventually reach Davis street. Therein lies the gateway to the Gaybourhood as described in #5). If you continue straight on Granville street you soon approach Pacific Boulevard. This delightful oceanfront area is the fancy spot called Yaletown. The downtown culture of Granville street culture will dramatically change to “bourgie”. Price-tags on nearly everything will rise in proportion to the quality of bars and tapas restaurants, as well as the increasing quantity of juice-bars, yoga studios, and breast implants. If visiting its nightlife, you may regret not being dressed up. Drink to a toast of high-culture!
9. Take a Boat to go Shopping (Granville Island)
From the False Creek marina in Yaletown, the next recommended stint in your Vancouver adventure is to hop on a ferry to Granville Island. The inexpensive ten-minute ride itself is worth experiencing, for its spectacular view of Vancouver’s various beaches and oceanfront properties. Keep your eyes open for seals, too!
Upon arriving at Granville Island, you will undoubtedly feel pulled in many directions —for good reason. Nearly everywhere you wander is rich in specialty shops and food markets. On a sunny day, there will be musicians (or bands) playing. It is a personal pastime of mine to watch the way in which the sitting spectators, in this area, are often swindled out of their food by hungry seagulls. That aside, make sure you have plenty of time to spend at Granville Island.
10. Step Foot in One of the Most Beautiful Places on Earth (North Vancouver)
On the opposite stretch of Granville street is yet another ferry that I highly recommend you check out. Departing from Waterfront Station, is your opportunity to take a hiatus into the city of North Vancouver. Technically, this is a different city just like West Vancouver, or Burnaby, or the city of Richmond (see #11). What makes North Vancouver unique is its unspoiled natural beauty. On a whole, it is much quieter than Vancouver itself. In my opinion, even the air tastes cleaner. If you are an outdoorsy enthusiast, this might be your slice of heaven. Typically, when tourists venture to North Vancouver, they visit the highly acclaimed attractions of Capilano Suspension Bridge, Grouse Mountain, and Lynn Canyon Park.
Before disappearing into nature, however, you should begin your time in North Vancouver at the Lonsdale Quay, which will present itself as soon as you step off the ferry. The “Quay” (pronounced “key”) is an impressive waterfront market with hundreds of shops and things to look at, similar to Granville Island.
What you need to know: The prices for food at the Quay will be significantly higher than other places. Don’t expect to find many bargains.
11. Visit China Town…and then see the REAL China Town (Richmond)
As alluded to at the beginning of this article, Vancouver is basically an Asian city. Some reports estimate that about a third of all Vancouver residents are of Chinese descent —without even including the City of Richmond, bordering south Vancouver, which is predominantly Cantonese. This oddity (for a “Western” city) is largely the result of Hong Kong residents flooding into the area, in the 1980s, when it was uncertain how China would address Hong Kong’s transfer from British rule.
Even before the 1980s, a large influx of Chinese immigrants arrived in the 1880s, most famously to construct the railroads. Nowadays, Vancouver’s Chinatown boasts the largest one in Canada and one of the oldest in all of North America. That said, the real Chinatown is the City of Richmond: a ten-minute train ride from the City of Vancouver southward —the location of the International Vancouver Airport, where you likely arrived from. Although I wouldn’t eagerly recommend visiting Richmond (unless, you are in search of authentic Cantonese dishes), there is quite an impressive Asian night-market you can check out any Saturday evening.
What you need to know: In the topsy-turvy time of World War Two, the Canadian government committed some humiliating injustices against its Asian citizens, especially Japanese-Canadians. Many other regretful policies had also been instituted earlier than WWII, including the infamous “Head Tax” on railroad workers. If this subject comes up in conversation, be sensitive. For more context, there are numerous museums and tours that elaborate on this area of Canadian history.
Secondly, and unrelated to Vancouver’s Chinese heritage, Chinatown also inhabits much of Canada’s most economically-disadvantaged population. Referred to as the “Downtown East Side” (DTES), this particular area-code is the poorest one in all Canada, replete with drug-use, sex work, mental illness, and homelessness. The majority of victims are First Nations (a.k.a. “indigenous”, “Indian”, “aboriginal”). That said, the DTES has been undergoing extensive gentrification and nowadays, there seem to be as many trendy restaurants as drop-in centres. In any case, be safe. (see Mark Brand’s TedEx talks and Dr. Mate’s videos, linked below)
Other Notable Mentions…
In addition to the list above, here is a smaller list of more other activities:
- Eat a Free Dinner at a Temple
- Go Reggae Dancing (Thursday “Ting” at the Astoria, a.k.a. “The Ass”)
- Enjoy a Downtown Ghost Tour
- Be a Jimi Hendrix Fan (visit his shrine, where he spent his summers at his grandmother’s restaurant!)
- Take a day-tip to Squamish
Movie Recommendations:
- Dr. Mate’s The Jungle Prescription (ayahuasca and drug addiction)
- All things Seth Rogan
- Ted Talk TedEx: Mark Brand
- Social Entrepreneurship and the Future of Food with Mark Brand (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1yRwcp-_1iI)
- Against the Grain vs Mark Brand: Mark Brand at TEDxSFU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OnTTlzz8YYo)
- The Impact of an Unconventional Solution: Mark Brand at TEDxVancouver (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3mXMw5aTva4)
- The Prince of Pot (Marc Emery)
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