This article is for those exploring Taiwan, outside Taipei. If this is your first InnerNational article related to Taiwan, see An Outsider’s Introduction to Taiwan. You can also check out 7 Things to do in Taipei.
A Taiwanese adventure (outside Taipei) will be very nature-centric, involving waterfalls, hiking trails, hot springs, surfing spots, giant trees, and other such attractions. Not all adventures are strictly outdoors, however. You can also sightsee historical temples, visit a psychic, or delve into about Taiwan’s traditional healing arts.
Taiwan also has something for the “thrill-seekers”, who may prefer to go surfing or spend some time throwing-up from an amusement park ride. For the intellectual-minded, Taiwan also has several notable science museums, being a country heavily invested in science and technology. Whatever your vacation “style”, there is something for everyone on this charming sweet-potato shaped island.
If visiting this Taiwan feels intimidating refer to our Tourism Fears article.
This article contains all the recommended stops, for those setting out to explore the entire island. It is a clockwise itinerary beginning (and ending) in Taipei. This adventure can keep you busy for a full month, with plenty of time to relax.
FOR THOSE GOING COUNTER-CLOCKWISE: No sweat. If traveling counter-clockwise is your fancy, you might want to begin your trip in Taoyuan (instead of Taipei), where the international airport is located.
Leaving Taipei:
Whether traveling clockwise or counter-clockwise, we will begin in Taipei City’s Main Station. Make no mistake: This bus-train station is a labyrinth. Almost everyone gets lost. Being the juncture of the local train (MRT), non-local trains (the HSR and the TRA), and the local (and non-local) bus system, Main Station is notoriously confusing. It is so easy to get lost, Main station has been nicknamed “the biggest maze in Taiwan”. We recommend you download the Taipei Main Station Navigator app (by Askey Computer Corp) that was designed by the government to help tourists, though you may need a Mandarin dictionary to use it.
When exiting from Taipei, there are many transportation methods to choose. The High-Speed Rail (HSR) is the quickest —yet most expensive. On the other hand, the Taiwan Railroad Administration (TRA) train is cheaper but substantially slower. I recommend traveling by bus. You always get a seat, a toilet, a view, and free wifi. It is also the cheapest way to travel.
CONGRATULATIONS!
If you are leaving Taipei, you are officially part of the Taiwan-tourist elite. As the title of this article indicates, we will travel clockwise —beginning and ending in Taipei.
See A Crazy Geological Phenomenon (Keelung, Yehliu Geopark)
Beginning our clockwise adventure, we will drive 45-min north-east to Yehliu Geopark. Personally, this attraction exceeded my expectations. Somehow, over millions of years, the combination of ocean currents and extreme weather patterns contributed to the creation of bizarrely-shaped rock formations. Some look like Alberta’s “Hoodoos”, whereas other structures have the uncanny resemblance of candles, sandals, and of course, the most famous Queen’s Head (as depicted on many Taiwan postcards). This is a popular tourist attraction, so there are many nearby restaurants and outdoor markets.
What you need to know: If English is your only tongue, you will quickly notice that Taiwan is considerably less English-speaking the moment you leave Taipei. Even so, most people speak some English, so speak slow and simple. You can also try your hand at speaking Mandarin Chinese (or Taiwanese!). Check out our article called Why You Should Learn Chinese.
Visit the Scene of Spirited Away Anime (Jiufen Old Street)
An hour zig-zag drive from Yehliu Geopark is Jiufen Old Street, located in the Ruifang District. For those familiar with Hayao Miyazaki films, such as Princess Mononoke, Jiufen Old Street is (allegedly) the place that inspired the setting of Spirited Away —another famous film of his. For those unfamiliar, Spirited Away is the tale of a girl who found herself trapped in a spiritual bathhouse after her parents turned into pigs. Long story.
Putting Spirited Away aside, Jiufen flaunts one of Taiwan’s most visually captivating street markets, sprawling between a mountainside and the ocean, in narrow, serpentine streets of cobblestone. Jiufen is also historically significant, as it was once a gold-rush town in the 1430s, as well as being a reminder of Dutch colonialism, as well as Japanese occupation. Whether or not you’re a history buff, the ocean view from the restaurants and teashops are stunning.
Longdong Bay (snorkeling)
Next, we will take a half-hour drive eastwards to Long Dong Bay, to check out some beaches, including places you can snorkel (or scuba dive!). Granted, you may not see a fluorescent display of corals, it is still a fun way to spend the day, scampering over rocks and chasing fish around with a snorkel. Though it’s possible to find a sandy beach, there are other, better sandy beaches on our itinerary.
Keep your eyes open for the advertisements along the highway —you can find yourself on a Bat Cave tour!
Fulong Beach (a beach peninsula!)
An hour east of Taipei is Fulong Beach. Being a very narrow peninsula, there are literally two beachfronts to choose from! In other words, there are plenty of places to lay your towel. Furthermore, the government has installed a series of gargantuan concrete “sand-castles”, in the likeness of mermaids, Greek Gods, and other iconic creations. This beach also hosts several outdoor events and concerts, so there are often lots of food stands in the area.
If you’re feeling a little fancy, there is a (3-star) hotel 5-minutes away from the ocean called 福容大飯店 福隆.
Pingxi (Lantern Festival & Shifen Waterfall)
A 40-minute drive west from Fulong Beach is the rural district called Pingxi. If you prefer not to backtrack, you may regard Pingxi as a 30-minute drive south of Keelung (or 40-minute east from Taipei).
If you are traveling in Taiwan between February or March, you may be fortunate to see the Lantern Festival! Though there are similar celebrations throughout Taiwan, nothing beats the old coal-mining town of Pingxi, with its Pingxi Old Street. The historic area consists of an outside market, stretching down both sides of a train track —which, does have an occasional (slow-moving) train. Rest assured, it’s not a dangerous affair.
It is best to visit Pingxi after sunset when the sight of fire-lit lanterns floating in the sky is the most dazzling. With so many of these paper contraptions floating (and eventually going down in flames!) all over the neighborhood, it’s surprising there aren’t more fire-safety concerns.
In any case, for a small fee, you and a partner can release your own lantern to the heavens. Paintbrushes are available to write prayers or wishes on the lantern, before sending them upwards. It’s a great cultural pastime.
In addition to the Lantern Festival, the Shifen Waterfall is only a two-minute walk from Pingxi Old Street and is worth a trip to Pingxi in its own right (in the daylight).
Yilan City (Hot springs and waterfalls)
From Pingxi (or Keelung), we drive an hour south to Yilan City.
Yilan City (in Yilan County) seems to be the place where most Taipei folks like to have their weekend get-aways. First of all, it’s very close to Taipei —a 45-min drive south-east. Also, due to the abundance of hot springs, Yilan is a very soothing, quiet destination. Many hotels, even apartment complexes (with Airbnb hosts) offer private hot springs, making Yilan a great place to relax, enjoy some quiet dining, and check out the local attractions.
What you need to know: Taiwan is finicky about swimming etiquette. In most places, a swimming cap is mandatory and “beach shorts” are not considered acceptable “swim shorts”. Furthermore, many hot springs are gender-segregated and clothing is optional (but swim caps are still mandatory).
When visiting Yilan, I recommend booking your accommodation in the city, where restaurants and night markets are within walking distance. Yilan is a quaint, newly paved pedestrian-friendly city, so you won’t need to worry about excessive traffic noise. As you will see, there are many massage shops to visit, including one type of interesting massage whereby fish “massage” your feet by eating bits of dead skin, submerged in an aquarium. In a similar vein, you can also try “prawn fishing” (or “urban shrimp fishing”), which is a popular entertainment. You will be given a rod and fish hook and, stooping over a shallow pool, you will try to catch a prawn —before it tears your fishing line, that is. In many places, you can cook and eat what you catch!
Outside the city center, there are many other attractions, including a vinegar distillery (though English is scant). Like many places in Taiwan, including Hualien, there are also several nearby waterfalls to check out.
Hualien City (Surfing and Whale songs)
From Yilan, we take a 3-hour drive to Hualien. Alternatively, Hualien is a 3.15-hour drive from Pingxi or 3-hrs from Taipei.
Hualien is amazing. Driving to Hualien, along the coastal highway, is on par with Italy’s Amalfi Coast. At times, the road plunges straight into the mountains in long winding tunnels made possible with dynamite. Without segue, the tunnel may transform into a bridge, overlooking turquoise rivers below between steep mountain faces, and again, you will find yourself driving parallel an enormous cliff overlooking the ocean horizon.
Upon reaching Hualien, one popular destination (weather permitting) is Taroko Gorge National Park. Foot-passengers can walk along the river, take photos of Hualien’s many waterfalls, and enjoy the mountainous landscape.
If you have a few days to spend, you can’t go wrong with a visit to Farglory (Shoufent) Ocean Park. There are amusement park rides, a gondola, magic shows, indoor dolphins, but above all, an epic aquarium with an enormous manta ray.
When night looms over Hualien, check out the Dongdamen Night Market. It’s a massive food market, with highlights of Taiwan’s Aboriginal culture, music, and games. You can easily spend several hours walking through the crowds.
Last but not least, Hualien is known as a popular surfing spot, especially among foreigners who typical travel from Taipei to ride its waves. At certain times of the year, some companies also escort travelers out to sea, for whale watching tours —including opportunities to hear whale the songs!
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